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Marco Camandona

Italian nationality
46 years old
He was born and currently lives in Aosta Valley. He is an alpinist and a passionate photographer. He is also a mountain guide and a ski instructor.Marco climbed the most difficult routes of the mountains surrounding Aosta Valley from Mount Blanc to Monte Cervino.Since 1996, he has done 15 expeditions and several adventurous journeys, hiking five out of the seven summits, one each continent.For five times he has conquered mountains 8000 meters high without the help of oxygen.Marco is among the few elected alpinists on earth to have climbed K2 (8611m) and Anapurna (8091m), wich are two of the most difficult and dangerous mountains in the world and Everest (8848m).He is the technical director of the international ski mountaineering competition Millet Tour the Rutor Extreme.In autumn 2012 he opened a new route called "Princess Cecile Line" on the West wall of Churen Himal in Nepal (7371m) close to the Dhaulagiri chain in a wild environment that allowed a direct contact with the mountain. A difference in max-height of 2750 meters from the base camp and a drop of 1200 meters of the new route, ranked TD sup, which is characterized by a continuous gradient of 50°-70° and with passages on rock ranked 5 sup at high altitude. In 2014, He goes for almost two month of expedition at the frontier between Nepal and the Indian state of Sikkin, and he realize the ascent of mt. Kanchenjunga (mt 8598), world’s third highest mountain!
« In the future, mountaineering will be in the hands of the new generation alpinists. »
 
CAREER HIGHLIGHTS
  • 2014      Kanchenjunga
  • 2012      Churen Himal Ouest
  • 2010      Everest
  • 2009      Mc Kinley
  • 2006      Annapurna
  • 2005      Annapurna
  • 2004      Kilimanjaro
  • 2003      Annapurna
  • 2003      Elbrouz
  • 2002      Mc Kinley
  • 2001      Aconcagua
  • 2000      K2
  • 1998      Cho Oyu
  • 1998      Shisha Pangma
  • 1996      Manaslu
INTERVIEW
 
+ What are the 3 most beautiful routes you achieved ? : 
My favourite route is Bonnington on the South wall of Anapurna for the difficulty and esthetical beauty of the line. My second choice is Abruzzi Spur on K2 for technical difficulties and the high altitude. My third option would definitely be the new route "Princess Cecile Line" on the West wall of Churen Himal in Nepal (7371m) close to the Dhaulagiri chain in a wild environment that allowed a direct contact with the mountain.
 
+ Who do you prefer mountaineering with ? : 
When I don't plan an expedition, I think about my final aim as an alpinist, but I also take into consideration friendship. This is why in choosing my companions I always look for people I know, who I trust and who I would like to share such an important experience with. However the physical preparation and the technical abilities can't be underestimated.
 
+ You best time in mountain ? : 
After 45 days of expedition 5 friends all together on the Summit of Everest without the help of oxygen.
 
+ And the worst...? : 
Can I choose more than one? I would definitely say the death of one of my companions provoked by an avalanche while we were climbing Anapurna in 2005 and the rescue of three members of the expedition.
 
+ What do you like to do when you're not mountaineering ? :
I enjoy doing ski mountaineering and trail running. I am committed as an instructor in Ski Club Corrado Gex training teenagers for ski mountaineering competitions. Three athletes of the Ski Club are actual members of the Italian Ski Mountaineering team.
 
+ How do you feel mountaineering will evolve in the next years ? : 
In the future, mountaineering will be in the hands of the new generation alpinists. What I expect is mountaineering on the high Himalayan mountains with great difficulties on mixed ground (ice and rock) on 7000 meters of altitude where men can still express at his best qualities as an alpinist.