Mountaineering
16.11.2018

Face to Face with the Eiger

You leave warmth, light and sound behind. And, a few moments later, find yourself in silence, shade, cold, solitude, doubt and exposure. That's the magic of the Eiger.
Face à Face avec l'ogre
"You leave warmth, light and sound behind. And, a few moments later, find yourself in silence, shade, cold, solitude, doubt and exposure. That's the magic of the Eiger"
Christophe Profit
 

 

EIGERWAND

3970M. - GRINDELWALD - BERNESE ALPS - SWITZERLAND

Eiger Norwand, enduring saga
The Eiger has forged itself a special status among the great summits of the Alps. Its North face is an endless source of inspiration and exploits – a benchmark for every mountaineer.
Its North face, the biggest of the Alps with 1 800 meters, still exerces its attraction power on alpinists. It owes its fame to its history, to the stories written by the men and women who have sought to rise up on it.
 
It became "the Ogre", the target for all challenges.
 
With more than 30 days' climbing on the crag under his belt, Lorentz Frutiger is the Eiger specialist. He agreed to share his local knowledge and experience with Louis Laurent, mountain guide in Chamonix.
 

 

 

THE EIGER, An alpine dream
In the late 30's, Andreas Heckmair, known as “Anderl”, was verging on depression. A guide and ambitious mountaineer, he dreamed of being among those to scale one of the north faces which, in his view, represented the “last three problems of the Alps”. The north face of the Matterhorn had been conquered in 1931, and that of Les Grandes Jorasses in 1935. Only the Eigerwand was left. Despite a failed attempt, he became "the man of the Eiger".

These two seminal performances would give rise, twenty-five years later, to an incredible contest. In the late ‘70s, the Japanese Tsuneo Hasegawa and Frenchman Ivano Ghiradini were vying for winter-solo supremacy on the “last three problems”. In 1985, Christophe Profit completed the solo summer enchainment of what was now called “the Trilogy”, in less than twenty-four hours. On his path, another challenge now loomed large: the same enchainment, but in winter.
In 1987, Profit completed the winter solo enchainment of the “Trilogy”, thus adding a chapter to the Eiger’s legend: the myth of the Trilogy was born. 

To learn more on this face's history, read the Trilogy journal here.

 

 

«Mountains are accessible - It's just a matter of willpower»
Louis Laurent
 

 

Eiger's north face, at 1800m the highest in the Alps, still exerts an irresistible pull on mountaineers. Of that, Millet is convinced. Which is why, in July 2015, the brand signed an exclusive partnership with the prestigious local guides company. And then, five months later, pitched its base camp in Grindelwald, at the foot of this “great spearhead”. Since 2009, Millet has also built strong ties with the Chamonix Guides Company, whose mountain experts all share the same high standards with regard to their sporting disciplines, to human values, and to respect for their playground. Indeed, Millet draws on their experience in its field tests and for product innovation and development.