Hiking and Trekking
Millet Expedition Project
21.02.2015

Iranian Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition – 2015

For this year's MXP, a group of Iranian moutaineers from the Iranian Federation was selected for their incredible and bold project. Destination: The Nanga Parbat’s summit (8126m) during the winter. If accomplished, this will be a first.
When we reached Islamabad, we didn’t have enough time and our flight was one day late since we stopped in Doha. So, as soon as we arrived to Islamabad Airport, we went to Chilas city with a Mini-Bus. The road was unbelievably rough and long: We drove on Karakorum Highway from 4 AM to 8 PM :)

We stayed one extra night in Chilas city in order to get ready and then we continued our trip to Diamir Village by jeep. Three days trekking. Snow’s falling and it slow us down, it’s always a problem with sherpas and finally we end up paying them double so our group can make its way to B.C.

From here, it’s cold days and long ways under the falling snow.

 

"We are in Nanga Base Camp"

 

We are arrived, happy and full of energy. Now, we must rest 2 days in the base camp and begin the new stage of our expedition. 4300m to 5100m. We climb from B.C to Camp 1 in deep snow! It’s a 7 hours walk…

We will then deposit all the C1 equipment and head back to B.C

The bad weather will force us to rest for 2 other days. Then C1 again, this time while a making fixed rope start. On the first day, we made 250m of fixed rope and we slept in C1 and then, after we went to Kinshofer wall in order to make another fixed rope start from there. We made 800m but we were short on time. The day after, we’ll go back at it for 500 extra meters and then the bad weather will force us returning to B.C again.

 

 

Some days of rest will follow and then fixing rope again. The weather window will enable us to go to C2 for some setup and within these days, we used the following equipments for fixing ropes:

  • 10 Ice screws “Cassin”
  • 1000m of rope
  • 10 quickdraws
  • 5 harnesses
  • 5 Snow bars

We are still in B.C now and we’re up to 8 days of bad weather and counting. We must wait for the next good weather window for a first summit attempt.

Several partners have joined their resources to make this expedition possible and they have brought logistical and material support. Partners that helped this expedition are Allibert Trekking, Julbo, Polartec, Katadyn, Optimus, Trek'n Eat, Nemo, Ushuaïa, Kairn.com, TV Mountain, GMHM, Escape, TV8 Mont Blanc, IFremmont.