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Be bold blog
Climbing
18.01.2017

Mateusz Haladaj is finally back!

After one month of attempts Mateusz Haladaj managed to put all the puzzles together and climb Selecciό Natural in the Spanish cave of Santa Linya.
The autumn season was quite difficult: extremely hot November was followed by cold and foggy December, but fortunately a short window of good conditions appeared to be enough.
 
His 6th route of the 9th grade in the magnificent cave was definitely the most satisfying one. Not only was it one of the most beautiful lines he has tried, but also very solid for the grade. There are less holds at the crux part every year, but the grade stays the same – that is how it’s done in Santa Linya.
 

 

 

 

No matter difficulty, the biggest challenge was to climb the route after a long brake with almost no training preparation. After accomplishing the First Ley 9a+ in Spring, Mateusz went directly on the routes harder finish that offers two extremely hard moves on tiny crimps. Unfortunately he didn’t notice his body was too tired and the overtraining resulted in severe finger injury. Complete pulley rupture usually means a long brake from climbing and potentially an operation. So he has to forget his first 9b project for at least one year.
 

Long physiotherapy and a big amount of patience was the key. Mateusz could get back to climbing in November; however the lack of proper training made him frustrated when his forearms got pumped much faster than he would have ever expected. No matter the shape he kept trying, and enjoyed the movement in natural rock which always makes him happy. Final ascent proves that one could always succeed if there is enough motivation.

 

 

 

«Brain is the most important muscle by climbing» Wolgang Güllich