A new 9a for Honngy during his french trip
It was my third occasion climbing at Céüse but my first time having enough days to project something at my limit. Within a few days I had picked out a route that I knew would take considerable effort to complete. La Cadre Nouvelle is a 9a or 5.14d that sits almost at the center of the Biographié wall and climbs a “window” of orange rock that sits within a sea of blue limestone. The route consists of two hard boulder problems separated by pumpy and powerful moves with decent rests.
The first boulder is a dyno to a flat crimp with poor feet, and the second boulder being a hard deadpoint to a shallow two-finger pocket. I was very happy to have completed this route and still have nearly a month left in my trip to try other climbs.
After sending La Cadre Nouvelle I didn’t try anything at that level or harder but Céüse has some of the best in the world of all grades and I was completely satisfied with climbing routes that would only take me a few tries. I was also able to venture to the Grand Face and do a multipitch route which was an amazing experience,and a new one for me.
We also took a week away from the hard climbing of Céüse and traveled to the Verdon Gorge where we were blown away by the endless canyons of limestone, a return trip must be made.
While in France one of my goals (besides climbing) was to film. I am a film student at the University so I am somewhat obligated to film everything I can and I believe our trip offers some of the most amazing climbing along with beautiful scenery that people will be interested to watch!
Trying to make a climbing film while also trying to climb at my limit turned out to be a pretty grueling task. It was hard to me to balance my time between filming and climbing and make sacrifices on both accounts, whether it be not trying my project to allow me to film more that day, or potentially missing a key moment because I am climbing and not filming. In the end it was a tough task but totally worth the extra effort and I am excited to share our adventure with everyone soon!
Overall we had an amazing trip. To have climbed with such motivated and talented people from all over the world was very inspiring to me. Looking forward to returning someday, hopefully someday soon!
Jul 3, 2015 at 3:09pm PDT
A little pétanque with Arnaud Petit
Matty having some rest in "Natikik" in Céüse