Expedition
18.04.2014

The public elected expedition

During three weeks the operation « expedition of the public » has been started up. The aim ? To vote for your favorite expedition, the one that you want to become true. Among fourteen expeditions, you were a lot to vote pour the expedition « First ascent of the Nanga Parbat in winter ». With more than 600 votes, Mahmoud, Iraj and Reza have chances to go to Pakistan, to face the wind and the cold to reach the summit of Nanga Parbat.

A murderer summit

Climb the Nanga Parbat is not easy task... The Nanga Parbat is famous because is one of the 8000 the most difficult. Numbers speak : only 186 ascensions have been succeeded whereas 61 people died there. Highest at 8126 meters the Nanga Parbat is the ninth highest summit of the world and the highest mountain located entirely in Pakistan. Before the successful ascent in 1953 by a German team, 31 people died on this summit that Germans called « Killer mountain ». Mahmoud, Iraj and Reza, all membre of the Iranian Federation are professional who have good list of hits.

An experienced and prepared team

Mahmoud Hashemi is precocious. He wa 21 when he achieved the ascent of a 6800 meters and then he never stopped to reach high summits. « You are crazy » it’s what the Iranian federation told them when they said that they wanted to do the ascent of Narga Parbat in winter. We don’t even talk about Iraj and Reza, who are as crazy, as experienced and as precocious than Mahmoud.

After being elected « expedition of the public », we asked few questions to those three « crazy men », who in January 2015 will try the winter ascent of Nanga Parbat. Interview.   

Mahmoud Hashemi

Why did you choose to climb this summit?

Nanagaparbat is one of the last 8000 meters that has been ascent by Iranians, in despite of this fact, it is the most familiar mountain among Iranians and as a matter of fact Nangaparbat has escaped from the Iranian mountaineers eyes for a long time and after a while when we noticed on it, we began to focused leaving a record and actually it forms a new kind of race to gather technical knowledge of topping Nanagaparbat.

Why it is so special?

Nangaparbat is the only mountain that has not ascent in winter and we sure that are able to break the record.

How did/do you train to do it?

Our team has a huge amount of experiences in Himalayan adventures. Iran is a plateau and counted as a mountainous country; we have ascent whole of Iran's big walls and difficult traverses in winter and part of our acts and plans are also in summer if we find our sponsor we go to K2. And after that the last 8000m in Pakistan would be Nangaparbat. Also we had climbed bellow mountains before:

Broad Peak, Gasherbrum II, Gasherbrum I, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, Makalu, Spantik, Noshaq, Tilicho Peak, Lenin ann etc... 

How do you feel?

Yeah, being optimistic; we have learned it from mountains and our experience tell us it's the most important difference of successful and unsuccessful mountaineers; so we will trying and we are very hopeful to win.

Iraj Maani

Reza Bahadorani

What will be difficult?

One of the first cruxes to run an expedition is the financial problem; it's relating to find a sponsor with a good motivation and orientation, that simultaneously able to gain good benefits from the commercial purposes. Yeah, Another big difficulty is the severe coldness of this mountain in winter which with the amazing equipment that we all are addressing in the Millet collection we will overcome it.

It’s a very difficult summit, why do you want to climb it during winter?

Because of being novel and because of our willingness and ability.

What’s your motto?

One step more, even by ten more breath. Sound mind and Safe climb.